Mimi Hoppen, director of jewelery at Dover Street Market, believes that this will be the main trend driving purchases in 2023: “I think the models we will see will really be for everyday wear, rather than occasional jewellery.” She also points to the continued popularity of the rings by Ilaria Icardi, the jewelry designer who is also the design director of Bottega Veneta ready-to-wear, and the diamond earrings by Raphaele Canot.
The same easy-to-wear feel applies to beaded jewelry, which Beales says is becoming “less of a vacation look and more of an everyday look.” You’ll see Brooke Gregson’s semi-precious beads and By Pariah pieces in darker tones, a change from the bright colors of summer.
This is not to say that flashy pieces are going away. In fact, for Established’s Nikki Erwin, knuckle-breaking rings like her ‘Zero FG’ model are attracting new fans for their daring aesthetic and, in this particular case, for their tongue-in-cheek secret message: ‘This ring He has conquered unexpected people, even women between 60 and 70 years old,’ he says with a laugh.
At Netaporter.com, Market Director Libby Page says that the yellow gold jewelry remain popular: ‘We love the mix of textures, links and solid shapes, which are simple yet bold. Lauren Rubinski, David Yurman and David Webb are the designers who have mastered this technique,’ he says.
The pearls They’re still a popular choice, too: “Pearls are still very popular for us, and next season we’re going to see bigger pearls,” says Beales, pointing to the giant pearl necklaces and bracelets from CompletedWorks, “We’ve seen our designers wear pearls to the next level: diamond tennis necklaces, chokers and ties embellished with pearls. Sophie Bille Brahe, Completedworks and Mizuki are some of our key brands in achieving this look,’ says Page.
Hoppen is also excited about the evolution of lab-grown diamonds, as brands are becoming more creative about what can be done in a lab, and clients are more open to these stones now than in the past: ‘There are some brands that are creating very interesting and beautiful techniques with these stones, for example Unsaid and Nomis’, explains Hoppen, ‘I am personally very excited about the innovation and creativity coming from this world, and to see what comes next.’